Holy Fallas

When I met Rosa in Ithaca last fall, Spain was just a distant dream. To be honest, I am not ever sure if I knew where Granada was, but when I heard that Rosa was from Spain, I just had to get to know her better. So being the loser I am, I chased her down after class and insisted that she tell me everything about Spain. As we got to know each other better, it was decided that I had to come visit her in Valencia when (if) I was in Spain. She told me that the best time to come was during “Las Fallas”. When I asked her what that was, she laughed and said she really couldn’t explain it. And after seeing it for myself, I completely understand her reaction.

To start with the very basics, Las Fallas is a festival that is held in Valencia every year, and it basically involves burning wooden monuments, explosions, fireworks, day drinking, and maybe some religion? As hard as I tried (ask Rosa, I really tried) to understand the celebration, I just really couldn’t grasp it, and I am struggling to find words to describe it.

So my understanding is that, every year, neighborhoods get together to construct a “falla” which is a big, colorful, wooden thing, that actually takes a lot of time, effort, and money to make. Then, they place the “falla” in, near, around, in some space, maybe? by their neighborhood. Then, they all get dressed up in these really elaborate costumes, the little kids are SO cute, and they hire a band, and they parade around in the streets having a generally wonderful time. At some point, they take a walk to put flowers in front of the cathedral. Then on the last night, they set their beautiful falla on fire, and I’m told that they often cry as they watch it burn.

While I think this is kind of strange, I follow the basic idea behind this part of Fallas. But what I don’t really understand is everything else that goes on. There are masses of people drinking on the streets (not exaggerating MASSES) and buying food from vendors, and explosions in the streets. Everyday at 2, everyone heads over to the center of Valencia (old, young, drunk, sober, EVERYONE and their mother-THOUSANDS of people), and listen to about 5 minutes of the loudest explosions I have ever heard, then casually get on with their day. Little kids are constantly running around BLOWING things up like its no big deal, while their parents laugh over their café con leche. On multiple occasions I was convinced that I was going to die.

I’m certain that I did a horrible job explaining the madness that is las fallas, but take my word for it; it was without a doubt, one of the strangest things that I have ever witnessed. The more I tried to figure it all out in my head, the more confusing it got, and by the end, I decided that it was something I should just enjoy and not question.

Besides having a wonderfully confusing time doing falla-y things, I had the best time with Rosa, catching up, exploring the city, and eating bañuelos (kinda like a donut that you dip in chocolate. Yum.) I feel in love with Rosa’s apartment, the palm trees, the SUNSHINE, the people, and the food. Rosa could not have treated me better, and saying goodbye to her was one of the hardest things in the world. I am truly blessed to have met her, and love her for putting up with “Las Fallas” for me.

Fun Facts:

-I spent 10 hours on a bus getting back to Granada from Valencia. I could have flown to Baltimore in less time.

-I made it to and from Valencia without losing anything or falling. I think I deserve a reward.

-At my internship, one of the ladies was celebrating her birthday, and I found out that in Spain, it’s normal to eat birthday cake at 10:30 in the morning. They call it second breakfast, and I am SO not complaining.

-It has been rainier this year than in the last 40 year. And I was told it NEVER rains in Granada. What a lie.

-I had midterms this week (see Uncle John, I do work too)

-I had mushrooms this week, and after years of hating them, don’t think they are that bad.

-I am going to Italy in 3 days.

-Tomorrow is supposed to be 67 and sunny 

I think I am the luckiest girl in the entire world. Sending love and warm weather your way, I’ll post again after Spring Break!